<![CDATA[EV Forum]]> http://www.evforum.org/ Tue, 07 Feb 2012 04:43:32 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Across the US in an EV]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-across-the-us-in-an-ev Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:20:13 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-across-the-us-in-an-ev <![CDATA[Cost of ownership]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-cost-of-ownership Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:20:13 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-cost-of-ownership
In more than one occasion I have heard folks say that an EV does not make economic sense: it costs too much vs a comparable ICE. Many on this forum, myself included, have different motivations to convert cars to electric than simply making it cheaper to own than the original ICE.

I am of the opinion that an EV has a lower cost of ownership than a comparable ICE. I also believe this is in great part why OEMs are not rushing to give us EVs and those that have are asking for their expected loses (our gains) up front. Why else would a Leaf be so expensive compared to it's ICE cousin?

I found this TCO calculator on Edmund's that show how much a typical car would cost to own over a five year period: http://www.edmunds.com/tco.html

With all other things like insurance, depreciation, etc being equal, can we agree that the "maintenance" figure is what a typical EV would cost per year? If so, look at the Fuel and Repairs costs for ICE . Doesn't that add up to about the same or less than what you would have spent converting a car that will likely give you 10 years of pain free service? Doesn't it show that, in fact, an EV does cost less than a comparable ICE?

I've given my slanted view on the topic but I'm looking for your honest opinion on this. Perhaps I'm missing something.

JR]]>
In more than one occasion I have heard folks say that an EV does not make economic sense: it costs too much vs a comparable ICE. Many on this forum, myself included, have different motivations to convert cars to electric than simply making it cheaper to own than the original ICE.

I am of the opinion that an EV has a lower cost of ownership than a comparable ICE. I also believe this is in great part why OEMs are not rushing to give us EVs and those that have are asking for their expected loses (our gains) up front. Why else would a Leaf be so expensive compared to it's ICE cousin?

I found this TCO calculator on Edmund's that show how much a typical car would cost to own over a five year period: http://www.edmunds.com/tco.html

With all other things like insurance, depreciation, etc being equal, can we agree that the "maintenance" figure is what a typical EV would cost per year? If so, look at the Fuel and Repairs costs for ICE . Doesn't that add up to about the same or less than what you would have spent converting a car that will likely give you 10 years of pain free service? Doesn't it show that, in fact, an EV does cost less than a comparable ICE?

I've given my slanted view on the topic but I'm looking for your honest opinion on this. Perhaps I'm missing something.

JR]]> <![CDATA[EcoCruse Electric Car (Neighborhood Electric Vehicle)]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-ecocruse-electric-car-neighborhood-electric-vehicle Mon, 06 Feb 2012 17:19:48 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-ecocruse-electric-car-neighborhood-electric-vehicle
$2,500.00 (0 Bids)
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I am just planning an 84V EV project.

Now I found some massive 56000MFD 160V electrolytic capacitors, which are quite cheap.

I thought that would be perfect, conected directly at the input of the controller to flatten out high current peaks to the battery.

Now while searching in the forums I read that the controller could cause problems with an electrolytic, especially is it is very close to the inputs.

Could somebody explain this further? It seems it has to do something with voltage peaks coming from the controller? How high are these?

In my case assuming a 104V max voltage in the system 160V should leave quite a lot of safety. (but that means that at 80V I am using just half of its capacity, right?)]]>
I am just planning an 84V EV project.

Now I found some massive 56000MFD 160V electrolytic capacitors, which are quite cheap.

I thought that would be perfect, conected directly at the input of the controller to flatten out high current peaks to the battery.

Now while searching in the forums I read that the controller could cause problems with an electrolytic, especially is it is very close to the inputs.

Could somebody explain this further? It seems it has to do something with voltage peaks coming from the controller? How high are these?

In my case assuming a 104V max voltage in the system 160V should leave quite a lot of safety. (but that means that at 80V I am using just half of its capacity, right?)]]> <![CDATA[Cobasys 288V Electric Vehicle Hybrid Bus NIMH Battery]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-cobasys-288v-electric-vehicle-hybrid-bus-nimh-battery--1922 Sun, 05 Feb 2012 06:54:04 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-cobasys-288v-electric-vehicle-hybrid-bus-nimh-battery--1922
$995.00 (0 Bids)
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$995.00 (0 Bids)
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$4,100.00 (0 Bids)
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$4,100.00 (0 Bids)
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The pressure switch is connected to the air intake valve.

For us, this negated all the fiddly plumbing (well we found it fiddly!) - all we needed to do was ensure that the holes we drilled in the airtight cylinder were sealed properly.

We thought about overheating, I dont know if this will be a problem? I guess a possible solution would be two more holes in the cylinder door for a simple water cooling system.

Anyone else tried this, any thoughts?]]>
The pressure switch is connected to the air intake valve.

For us, this negated all the fiddly plumbing (well we found it fiddly!) - all we needed to do was ensure that the holes we drilled in the airtight cylinder were sealed properly.

We thought about overheating, I dont know if this will be a problem? I guess a possible solution would be two more holes in the cylinder door for a simple water cooling system.

Anyone else tried this, any thoughts?]]> <![CDATA[Battery CSB EVX1272 F2,12V 8AH,F2,ELECTRIC VEHICLE 2PK]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-battery-csb-evx1272-f2-12v-8ah-f2-electric-vehicle-2pk Sat, 04 Feb 2012 17:16:27 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-battery-csb-evx1272-f2-12v-8ah-f2-electric-vehicle-2pk
$37.99
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$37.99
End Date: Saturday Mar-03-2012 13:29:47 PST
Buy It Now for only: US $37.99
Buy it now  |  Add to watch list]]> <![CDATA[Body Kit, Ferrari, GT40, Concept Car, Electric Vehicle, Replica, Kit car]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-body-kit-ferrari-gt40-concept-car-electric-vehicle-replica-kit-car--1920 Sat, 04 Feb 2012 17:16:27 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-body-kit-ferrari-gt40-concept-car-electric-vehicle-replica-kit-car--1920
$11,000.00 (0 Bids)
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$11,000.00 (0 Bids)
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Bid now  |  Add to watch list]]> <![CDATA[Non Conductive Component Mounting Material]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-non-conductive-component-mounting-material Sat, 04 Feb 2012 13:43:56 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-non-conductive-component-mounting-material
I'd like to have a place to mount a number of small components under the hood. Something like a piece of 1/2 inch think, 6 inch wide and 28 inch long piece of UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) Polyethylene Sheet. I'd mount this on the firewall, above the motor and everything else in the engine compartment.

This is where I'd mount things like varous relays, contactors, fuses, indicators, terminal strips etc. I'm trying to wrap this build up so it has a nice clean, professional look with everything easy to access... or at least as much as possible.

My question: Is this the best choice of material for this sort of use or is there something better suited to this application?

I've used a big sheet of 1/8 inch aluminum across the engine compartment, above the engine, as a place to mount the controller, DC/DC, charger, BMS, and throttle. Technically, I guess I could use a strip of aluminum for this application also, but I'd prefer a non-conductive surface.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Peter H.]]>
I'd like to have a place to mount a number of small components under the hood. Something like a piece of 1/2 inch think, 6 inch wide and 28 inch long piece of UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) Polyethylene Sheet. I'd mount this on the firewall, above the motor and everything else in the engine compartment.

This is where I'd mount things like varous relays, contactors, fuses, indicators, terminal strips etc. I'm trying to wrap this build up so it has a nice clean, professional look with everything easy to access... or at least as much as possible.

My question: Is this the best choice of material for this sort of use or is there something better suited to this application?

I've used a big sheet of 1/8 inch aluminum across the engine compartment, above the engine, as a place to mount the controller, DC/DC, charger, BMS, and throttle. Technically, I guess I could use a strip of aluminum for this application also, but I'd prefer a non-conductive surface.

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Peter H.]]> <![CDATA[Need help with marine drives Diesel/Electric]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-need-help-with-marine-drives-diesel-electric Sat, 04 Feb 2012 13:43:56 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-need-help-with-marine-drives-diesel-electric
Hello and thank you in advance for any assistance. I have a sailing catamaran that I am hauling out of the water to re-power. Presently we run two 55HP diesels as well as two 12KW 240v generators. We are an excellent sail boat but a marginal power boat. If we can run two electric motors at three phase 240V and then drive these motors by individual generators of apx 21 to 24 KW as well as supply ships power with the same gensets then I am a happy guy.....I understand that horse power can be an inflated guage of the work to be done....so here are some specifices....one engine drives the boat (42,000 lbs) at 8 knots at 2200 rpm...(two engines get us 10 knots) this is done via a 2.71 to 1 reduction gear so were are looking at shaft revolutions of apx 820 RPM....the engine produces about 90 ft pounds of torque at this rpm so allowing a 23% loss for gear box, CV Joint as well as the installed 15 degree shaft angle .....I am thinking that the prop is seeing about 69lbs of torque at 820 rpms but then I increase the torque by my gear reduction of 2.71 and come out with 186 ft lbs of torque needed at this RPM. for one drive...I might be able to use less pitch on my prop and spin it 1800 RPM but one of the truths of heavy boats is that slow turn and large diameter is more efficient...Presently the diameter of the prop(s) is 20" with a 17" pitch... regardless of the props used and shaft speed I am concerned with weight involved as the 10 to 20 HP electric three phase AC motors I have seen are heavy 300 to 500 lbs. and have serious requirements for starting amps I wish to have a relatively simple design and do not want to introduce high DC voltages to the design ....I wish to use each genset for ships house power and motor drive .... I would like to use (2) standard marine gensets (240V) 24 KW three phase producing 100AMPS at 240V ........Reliability is the key as we sometimes power for 48 hours nonstop....weight is also a key factor as we sail at 20 knots and any excess weight is our enemy.....with diesel over electric drive I will be able to pick the drives out of the water and sail two or three knots faster........any help with equipment selection..... motors and inverters ect....necessary for this and or comments as to whether this can be done as outlined is greatly appreciated.....thanks again....PS please accept my limited knowledge of things electrical !!!!!!!!!!!]]>
Hello and thank you in advance for any assistance. I have a sailing catamaran that I am hauling out of the water to re-power. Presently we run two 55HP diesels as well as two 12KW 240v generators. We are an excellent sail boat but a marginal power boat. If we can run two electric motors at three phase 240V and then drive these motors by individual generators of apx 21 to 24 KW as well as supply ships power with the same gensets then I am a happy guy.....I understand that horse power can be an inflated guage of the work to be done....so here are some specifices....one engine drives the boat (42,000 lbs) at 8 knots at 2200 rpm...(two engines get us 10 knots) this is done via a 2.71 to 1 reduction gear so were are looking at shaft revolutions of apx 820 RPM....the engine produces about 90 ft pounds of torque at this rpm so allowing a 23% loss for gear box, CV Joint as well as the installed 15 degree shaft angle .....I am thinking that the prop is seeing about 69lbs of torque at 820 rpms but then I increase the torque by my gear reduction of 2.71 and come out with 186 ft lbs of torque needed at this RPM. for one drive...I might be able to use less pitch on my prop and spin it 1800 RPM but one of the truths of heavy boats is that slow turn and large diameter is more efficient...Presently the diameter of the prop(s) is 20" with a 17" pitch... regardless of the props used and shaft speed I am concerned with weight involved as the 10 to 20 HP electric three phase AC motors I have seen are heavy 300 to 500 lbs. and have serious requirements for starting amps I wish to have a relatively simple design and do not want to introduce high DC voltages to the design ....I wish to use each genset for ships house power and motor drive .... I would like to use (2) standard marine gensets (240V) 24 KW three phase producing 100AMPS at 240V ........Reliability is the key as we sometimes power for 48 hours nonstop....weight is also a key factor as we sail at 20 knots and any excess weight is our enemy.....with diesel over electric drive I will be able to pick the drives out of the water and sail two or three knots faster........any help with equipment selection..... motors and inverters ect....necessary for this and or comments as to whether this can be done as outlined is greatly appreciated.....thanks again....PS please accept my limited knowledge of things electrical !!!!!!!!!!!]]> <![CDATA[grinding on deceleration?]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-grinding-on-deceleration Sat, 04 Feb 2012 13:43:56 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-grinding-on-deceleration
I understand that during deceleration the momentum of the car takes over and turns the electric motor, whereas the opposite happens during acceleration. However i don't understand why or how the car would be jerky and make grinding noises only during deceleration. I have a feeling my transmission is no good and something bad is happening during deceleration.

Any thoughts would be helpful and also how do your guys EV's act during deceleration in gear?]]>
I understand that during deceleration the momentum of the car takes over and turns the electric motor, whereas the opposite happens during acceleration. However i don't understand why or how the car would be jerky and make grinding noises only during deceleration. I have a feeling my transmission is no good and something bad is happening during deceleration.

Any thoughts would be helpful and also how do your guys EV's act during deceleration in gear?]]> <![CDATA[After two years of watching...my first conversion begins]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-after-two-years-of-watching-my-first-conversion-begins Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:46:53 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-after-two-years-of-watching-my-first-conversion-begins My choice for the car is Opel Corsa B, a very light-weight car (1852 lb/840 kg as you can see the specs if you follow the link)
after I've done some research (I must admit...my knowledges in electric and electronic field are....weak) my goal is that using a Kostov motor (because of the price and the fact that I live in Romania, country neighbour to Bulgaria so transportation costs me next to nothing) and a LiFePo4 battery pack I will build an EV with 150 Km (aprox 90 miles) range.
So...having these said...I need HELP Smile.
I need help designing the battery pack (or choosing where to buy one, choosing the right motor for the car - one of the Kostov's - the controller, charger and dc-dc converter.I have some friends who know their way and can guide me and will help me build it but they are not very convinced that I will succeed in making an electric car.I have planned to finish this car in about 2 years.The car is here, fully functional (with it's diesel engine running I mean), the funds for the electric motor will arive in june and then I will fit it to the car's transmission.I also need an advice about the controller that will fit on the motor.Then...it comes the hard part...I mean the expensive part.The battery pack.Wich will (as I said earlier) have to give a range of 90 miles/ 150 km and must be split in two.Half under the hood half in the trunk...I want to balance the weight about 50:50.So...the cost of the battery pack can be split in two.And when I mean battery pack I mean batteries+BMS, a pack ready to be installed in the car.
So...basicly I have an ideea, alot of enthusiasm and ...next to 0 knowledges/plans/calculations done.Help? Big Grin]]> My choice for the car is Opel Corsa B, a very light-weight car (1852 lb/840 kg as you can see the specs if you follow the link)
after I've done some research (I must admit...my knowledges in electric and electronic field are....weak) my goal is that using a Kostov motor (because of the price and the fact that I live in Romania, country neighbour to Bulgaria so transportation costs me next to nothing) and a LiFePo4 battery pack I will build an EV with 150 Km (aprox 90 miles) range.
So...having these said...I need HELP Smile.
I need help designing the battery pack (or choosing where to buy one, choosing the right motor for the car - one of the Kostov's - the controller, charger and dc-dc converter.I have some friends who know their way and can guide me and will help me build it but they are not very convinced that I will succeed in making an electric car.I have planned to finish this car in about 2 years.The car is here, fully functional (with it's diesel engine running I mean), the funds for the electric motor will arive in june and then I will fit it to the car's transmission.I also need an advice about the controller that will fit on the motor.Then...it comes the hard part...I mean the expensive part.The battery pack.Wich will (as I said earlier) have to give a range of 90 miles/ 150 km and must be split in two.Half under the hood half in the trunk...I want to balance the weight about 50:50.So...the cost of the battery pack can be split in two.And when I mean battery pack I mean batteries+BMS, a pack ready to be installed in the car.
So...basicly I have an ideea, alot of enthusiasm and ...next to 0 knowledges/plans/calculations done.Help? Big Grin]]> <![CDATA[Auto to Manual. Clutchless design?]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-auto-to-manual-clutchless-design Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:46:53 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-auto-to-manual-clutchless-design
I searched the forums but couldn't come up with a good answer to my question.

I have a 1976 BMW 2002 that I'm converting. Instead of planning things out much much more in advance, I jumped in head over heels and bought the car. This car is an automatic and I need it to be a manual. The problem resides in how to install the manual.

The car itself dosen't have a hole ready made for the clutch pedal in the cabin. The rest of the transmission will fit easily into the car. I'm wondering if I need to add a clutch pedal to the car anyway? I don't mind going clutchless as I've done it in an ICE before, but I do need to be able to backup easily when not at speed. I can plumb a hole for the clutch if need be but I'd really rather not if I don't have too.

What do you all think? See the car here.

BTW: The auto is already out of the car and won't be put back in so I can't go that route.]]>
I searched the forums but couldn't come up with a good answer to my question.

I have a 1976 BMW 2002 that I'm converting. Instead of planning things out much much more in advance, I jumped in head over heels and bought the car. This car is an automatic and I need it to be a manual. The problem resides in how to install the manual.

The car itself dosen't have a hole ready made for the clutch pedal in the cabin. The rest of the transmission will fit easily into the car. I'm wondering if I need to add a clutch pedal to the car anyway? I don't mind going clutchless as I've done it in an ICE before, but I do need to be able to backup easily when not at speed. I can plumb a hole for the clutch if need be but I'd really rather not if I don't have too.

What do you all think? See the car here.

BTW: The auto is already out of the car and won't be put back in so I can't go that route.]]> <![CDATA[1995 Dodge Intrepid ICE to EV Conversion]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-1995-dodge-intrepid-ice-to-ev-conversion Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:46:53 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-1995-dodge-intrepid-ice-to-ev-conversion
I've recently started bouncing the idea around in my head of converting my '95 intrepid into an EV. Currently it's just a wild dream, but I want to get some concrete ideas of how much it would cost, how much time and skill I'd need to pull it off, and the general opinion of what the best parts/setups are. Currently my car is running alright, I recently had to replace the tranny mount and O2 sensors, but besides that, it seems to be doing okay. I plan to run it until the engine or tranny gives, then attempt a conversion on the shell. Tech prices are going down, and gas is going up, so I figure it's win/win. Currently I fork out $60 a week for gas. That's over 3 grand a year, I figure I'd be well off spending that on an EV conversion, if I can figure out how to pull it off.

Some specs relating to the '95 Intrepid:
Engine: 3.3L V6 producing ~160 hp
Weight: 1,500 kg (3,307 lb)
Transmission: 4-gear auto
Length: 5.1 m (16.7 ft)
Width: 1.9 m (6.2 ft)
Layout: FF
Style: 4 dr sedan

What I need from my car:
0-50kmph within 10 seconds
0-100 within 25 seconds
Weight below 1,700 kg (3,748 lb)
Range: 25-30km (~18 miles)
Budget: $3,000-$5,000 CAD

Skill level:
I'm no mechanic. I can do oil changes, and I once took apart and reassembled a 4-banger petrol engine. I have a fascination with technology of any kind, and I grasp the basic concepts of both ICE and electric motors. Thankfully I have lots of gear-head friends and family.

The good:
Overall, it's a very large sedan with a modern (for it's age) aerodynamic design. I love it for it's comfort, and it looks pretty fine, too. Since it's a very large vehicle, the trunk, engine compartment, and cabin have lots of room, which is good if you need to store a lot of batteries.

The bad:
Since most electric cars seem to be small cars or pickups (which have very little weight in the rear), I'm doubtful of the feasibility of getting such a large vehicle working efficiently as an EV. I'd likely need an engine in the 110-140 KW range just to get it moving at a decent city speed. There is also the issue that it is an automatic front-wheel drive vehicle, I assume that a rear-wheel drive vehicle would be a lot easier to convert.

The rough plan:

Power:
I think a series of standard lead-acid car batteries stored in the trunk would be the best. I have to do some calculations, but I'd estimate around 16-20. I'll do some measurements soon and see how many the trunk could hold, allowing for about 2-3cm clearance between each one, for the holding rack. I also want to see about getting a small electric heater in the trunk for warming the batteries up before use, and then switching it to cooling mode when driving, hopefully keeping the cells within optimal operating temp.

Motor:
I'd want to ideally drop out the entire engine block, tranny, and clear out the unnecessary parts, anything to lessen weight. Stuff like the fuel tank, exhaust, etc. The engine bay is quite large and should easily be able to fit an electric engine, and the hardware necessary for operating it. I dunno if I'll be able to convert my old power steering/braking systems to work with the new electric engine, but I hope so, I'd miss both systems quite a lot.

As previously stated, I'll needs something at least 110KW, likely more. I'm leaning towards DC, as I'm not loaded, as much as I'd prefer AC. I want something pumping out at least 120 hp, anything else probably won't be able to move this lug. My worry is whether a tranny is needed, or can I just connect the engine directly to the axle. I don't think my transmission will play well with the electric motor, since I'm sure they run at different RPM and are set up completely. I've heard that you don't need a transmission or a clutch for an electric motor, since the torque range is so broad, and the redline generally higher than an ICE. Also, you can't stall an electric motor.

As a sidenote, I'd probably keep my rad fan and rig it to always run when the ignition is on. I'd maybe even go as far as a water jacket and cooling system, although I have no idea what kind of heat the engine will pump out, nor at what point heat is detrimental to the engine.

So, that's my rant so far, go ahead and poke holes in my plan. I want to know how feasible this idea is. Also, if you think I'm not totally off my rocker, any suggestions for parts within my (very loose) guidelines would be great. Cheaper is better, but I don't want to spend money on something that is total crap. Affordable, within reason, I want to build it to last.]]>
I've recently started bouncing the idea around in my head of converting my '95 intrepid into an EV. Currently it's just a wild dream, but I want to get some concrete ideas of how much it would cost, how much time and skill I'd need to pull it off, and the general opinion of what the best parts/setups are. Currently my car is running alright, I recently had to replace the tranny mount and O2 sensors, but besides that, it seems to be doing okay. I plan to run it until the engine or tranny gives, then attempt a conversion on the shell. Tech prices are going down, and gas is going up, so I figure it's win/win. Currently I fork out $60 a week for gas. That's over 3 grand a year, I figure I'd be well off spending that on an EV conversion, if I can figure out how to pull it off.

Some specs relating to the '95 Intrepid:
Engine: 3.3L V6 producing ~160 hp
Weight: 1,500 kg (3,307 lb)
Transmission: 4-gear auto
Length: 5.1 m (16.7 ft)
Width: 1.9 m (6.2 ft)
Layout: FF
Style: 4 dr sedan

What I need from my car:
0-50kmph within 10 seconds
0-100 within 25 seconds
Weight below 1,700 kg (3,748 lb)
Range: 25-30km (~18 miles)
Budget: $3,000-$5,000 CAD

Skill level:
I'm no mechanic. I can do oil changes, and I once took apart and reassembled a 4-banger petrol engine. I have a fascination with technology of any kind, and I grasp the basic concepts of both ICE and electric motors. Thankfully I have lots of gear-head friends and family.

The good:
Overall, it's a very large sedan with a modern (for it's age) aerodynamic design. I love it for it's comfort, and it looks pretty fine, too. Since it's a very large vehicle, the trunk, engine compartment, and cabin have lots of room, which is good if you need to store a lot of batteries.

The bad:
Since most electric cars seem to be small cars or pickups (which have very little weight in the rear), I'm doubtful of the feasibility of getting such a large vehicle working efficiently as an EV. I'd likely need an engine in the 110-140 KW range just to get it moving at a decent city speed. There is also the issue that it is an automatic front-wheel drive vehicle, I assume that a rear-wheel drive vehicle would be a lot easier to convert.

The rough plan:

Power:
I think a series of standard lead-acid car batteries stored in the trunk would be the best. I have to do some calculations, but I'd estimate around 16-20. I'll do some measurements soon and see how many the trunk could hold, allowing for about 2-3cm clearance between each one, for the holding rack. I also want to see about getting a small electric heater in the trunk for warming the batteries up before use, and then switching it to cooling mode when driving, hopefully keeping the cells within optimal operating temp.

Motor:
I'd want to ideally drop out the entire engine block, tranny, and clear out the unnecessary parts, anything to lessen weight. Stuff like the fuel tank, exhaust, etc. The engine bay is quite large and should easily be able to fit an electric engine, and the hardware necessary for operating it. I dunno if I'll be able to convert my old power steering/braking systems to work with the new electric engine, but I hope so, I'd miss both systems quite a lot.

As previously stated, I'll needs something at least 110KW, likely more. I'm leaning towards DC, as I'm not loaded, as much as I'd prefer AC. I want something pumping out at least 120 hp, anything else probably won't be able to move this lug. My worry is whether a tranny is needed, or can I just connect the engine directly to the axle. I don't think my transmission will play well with the electric motor, since I'm sure they run at different RPM and are set up completely. I've heard that you don't need a transmission or a clutch for an electric motor, since the torque range is so broad, and the redline generally higher than an ICE. Also, you can't stall an electric motor.

As a sidenote, I'd probably keep my rad fan and rig it to always run when the ignition is on. I'd maybe even go as far as a water jacket and cooling system, although I have no idea what kind of heat the engine will pump out, nor at what point heat is detrimental to the engine.

So, that's my rant so far, go ahead and poke holes in my plan. I want to know how feasible this idea is. Also, if you think I'm not totally off my rocker, any suggestions for parts within my (very loose) guidelines would be great. Cheaper is better, but I don't want to spend money on something that is total crap. Affordable, within reason, I want to build it to last.]]> <![CDATA[Sprocket Ratio = Pedal Assist MPH]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-sprocket-ratio-pedal-assist-mph Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:32:18 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-sprocket-ratio-pedal-assist-mph
For most builds, people should take into consideration the pedal assist capability of the bike.
(RPM - crank-pedal Revolutions Per Minute - pedal rate)
60 rpm is considered a casual-sustainable rate
90 rpm is, a more, top sustainable rate

Figured - rpm x ratio x wheel size = mph

(rpm x 60min) x (Front T / Rear T) x (Wheel " x 3.14) / 63360 = mph

26" wheels - My EZip Trailz (OEM)
(60rpm x 60min) x (44T/14T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 14.57mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (44T/14T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 21.86mph

26" wheels - My EZip Trailz (w/32-11T upgrade)
(60rpm x 60min) x (44T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 18.55mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (44T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 27.83mph

26" wheels - My Black Widow (Upgraded 34-11T)
(60rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 20.24mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 30.35mph

27" Wheels - My old 12 speed
(60rpm x 60min) x (52T/12T) x (27" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 20.87mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (52T/12T) x (27" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 31.31mph

700c = 28" wheels - My Haro Express Deluxe
(60rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (28" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 21.80mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (28" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 32.69mph

29'er Wheels
(60rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (29" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 22.58mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (29" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 33.86mph]]>
For most builds, people should take into consideration the pedal assist capability of the bike.
(RPM - crank-pedal Revolutions Per Minute - pedal rate)
60 rpm is considered a casual-sustainable rate
90 rpm is, a more, top sustainable rate

Figured - rpm x ratio x wheel size = mph

(rpm x 60min) x (Front T / Rear T) x (Wheel " x 3.14) / 63360 = mph

26" wheels - My EZip Trailz (OEM)
(60rpm x 60min) x (44T/14T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 14.57mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (44T/14T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 21.86mph

26" wheels - My EZip Trailz (w/32-11T upgrade)
(60rpm x 60min) x (44T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 18.55mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (44T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 27.83mph

26" wheels - My Black Widow (Upgraded 34-11T)
(60rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 20.24mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (26" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 30.35mph

27" Wheels - My old 12 speed
(60rpm x 60min) x (52T/12T) x (27" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 20.87mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (52T/12T) x (27" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 31.31mph

700c = 28" wheels - My Haro Express Deluxe
(60rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (28" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 21.80mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (28" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 32.69mph

29'er Wheels
(60rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (29" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 22.58mph
(90rpm x 60min) x (48T/11T) x (29" x 3.14) / (12" x 5280') = 33.86mph]]> <![CDATA[power inverter questions]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-power-inverter-questions Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:17:54 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-power-inverter-questions
This inverter is used in a small, off-grid, solar PV system running at 12 volts. I just invested in NiMH batteries to replace worn out FLA's. The NiMH's store about .5 kwh, enough for a couple day autonomy. They are charged by three 85 watt monocrystalline solar panels, a 15 watt amorphous panel, and an Air-X wind turbine. The excess is bled off. The distance from the batteries to the inverter is 40 feet.

I'm looking for possibilities to hook this up. Any help is appreciated.]]>
This inverter is used in a small, off-grid, solar PV system running at 12 volts. I just invested in NiMH batteries to replace worn out FLA's. The NiMH's store about .5 kwh, enough for a couple day autonomy. They are charged by three 85 watt monocrystalline solar panels, a 15 watt amorphous panel, and an Air-X wind turbine. The excess is bled off. The distance from the batteries to the inverter is 40 feet.

I'm looking for possibilities to hook this up. Any help is appreciated.]]> <![CDATA[Bombardier NV Neighborhood Vehicle Electric Golf Cart]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-bombardier-nv-neighborhood-vehicle-electric-golf-cart Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:16:07 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-bombardier-nv-neighborhood-vehicle-electric-golf-cart
$1,500.00 (24 Bids)
End Date: Monday Feb-06-2012 7:59:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: US $2,500.00
Bid now  |  Buy it now  |  Add to watch list]]>
$1,500.00 (24 Bids)
End Date: Monday Feb-06-2012 7:59:07 PST
Buy It Now for only: US $2,500.00
Bid now  |  Buy it now  |  Add to watch list]]> <![CDATA[military vehicle tank or armoured personal master electrical switch nos]]> http://www.evforum.org/Thread-military-vehicle-tank-or-armoured-personal-master-electrical-switch-nos Sat, 04 Feb 2012 11:16:07 -0500 http://www.evforum.org/Thread-military-vehicle-tank-or-armoured-personal-master-electrical-switch-nos
$20.00 (1 Bid)
End Date: Monday Feb-06-2012 18:00:00 PST
Bid now  |  Add to watch list]]>
$20.00 (1 Bid)
End Date: Monday Feb-06-2012 18:00:00 PST
Bid now  |  Add to watch list]]>